Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Pika Art

Having ACL surgery this winter forced me to try new activities besides climbing and skiing.  This winter I took up painting after a 8 year hiatus.  I painted in water color, a medium I struggled with, but it has really been enjoyable and has honestly helped tremendously with being cooped up on the couch all winter.  Many paintings I did while sitting below the formations in cold winter as the water froze on the paper.  All paintings (so far) pertain to the greater Beartooth region.  

As a plus I have had many offers to sell prints and put the art on hats/shirts.  I am happy to make prints and select art has been printed on trucker hats so far.  These hats are sold by e-mailing me directly ( or by visiting Beartooth Mountain Guides store front shop in Red lodge, Montana (look for the climbing wall out front).

To see prints visit Pika Art, the simple website I created to show case the goods.

Thanks and Cheers, 


Wednesday, October 28, 2015

From the East to the West - Cannon cliff and the City of Rocks

Wicked Splittah! Bridget leading Reppy's Crack - Cannon Cliff

The past month has been a whirl wind of teaching, traveling, and trying to balance all things life.  Bridget and I have had the chance to climb in Idaho and New Hampshire in a one moth period.   

The stunning Cannon Cliff

Bridget leading on the perfect splitter of Reppys crack while dodging falling ice from the cliff above

Bridget topping out Reppy's crack

Bridget on the second pitch of the Whitney - Gilman ridge on Cannon Cliff

Bridget on p3 of the Whitney -Gilman

Bridget topping out the Whitney- Gilman

leaf peeping

The city of rocks with Bridget and Leslie climbing on the anteater spire (right one)

Leslie climbing deep in the city

Leslie and Bridget navigating

The city

Cheers, Loren

Monday, August 24, 2015

From Washington pass to the Black hills

Austin Hart on a limestone palisade near Red Lodge 

Despite the ACL deficiency in my left knee I had a very enjoyable summer (stupidity is bliss?) climbing rocks, peaks, and boulders from Washington to South Dakota.  Here is a summer spent climbing with an injury.

Liberty Bell group from Washington pass.  Bridget and I climbed the right most tower (the liberty bell) via the NW face (right arete).

Bridget climbing on Liberty Bell

Liberty bell

Bridget on the summit of Liberty Bell

Chris Ebeling and I climbed 3 of the Tatoosh peaks in Rainier National park (Plummer, Pinnacle, and The Castle) - very fun scrambling on loose 4th class

Chris on the Pinnacle

Chris on the Castle

Rainier from the Tatoosh Range

Bridget and I also discovered surfing 

Bridget being a dirt bag

Austin Hart leading on C point - Beartooths

C point - no summit but we climbed the small pinnacle to the left - and found old webbing on top!

Austin Hart leading on the Tower of Innocence

Tower of Innocence

Tower of Innocence

Austin on the summit of the Tower of Innocence

And finally wrapping the summer up with a trip to the Black Hills.  I visited with my Mom and ran into some older (and awesome) local climbers who let me lead the classic Tricouni nail spire - the classic simul-rappel off the summit was worth it alone!

Cheers, Loren

Sunday, August 16, 2015

The summer of taking 'er easy

Mount Rainier from the Tatoosh range

This has been an interesting summer for me, one that is teaching me a lot of little life lessons.  In March I tweaked my knee pretty bad while hitting the park jumps at Red Lodge Mountain with my school group and it turned out to be bad.  As the most interesting man in the world would say: I don't always completely blow my ACL but when I do I make sure to be dressed in  a one piece Carhart suit while on the school ski trip.  Stay Gaper my friends.

I am planning on keeping this blog updated with the perspective of a climber in mind and all that the ACL surgery entails - as I couldn't find much written online about ACL surgery with a climbercentric view (The only exception being the great article written by Steph Davis on her blog).

Aside from not having an ACL in my left knee for the last 5 months it has been an awesome summer of climbing - I just have to stay closer to the car and not carry heavy packs (my own rules).

So here is a photo essay depicting a summer of taking 'er easy:

Austin Hart and I attempted Cathedral Point.  We got sandbaged on the approach and ended up running out of daylight (we did 1 pitch on the buttress).  We did climb the spire to the left as a consolation prize and found some tat on top.  Good old B-Tooths.

Austin Hart on top of a limestone palisade in the Red Lodge area

Audrey from NYC enjoying a trip up the Ramp (5.7).  Working for Beartooth Mountain guides this summer was pure fun as I couldn't carry heavy packs - so I got to do a lot of type 1 fun trips.

Looking up at Senor Clinton as he onsights an .11b pitch for the first ascent of pitch 1 of "Sundance" 

Looking down at Senor Clinton from pitch 2 of "Sundance"  burly.

I visited Bridget in Washington.  We climbed the classic "Libery Bell" via the NW face.

Bridget on Liberty Bell

Bridget on the summit of Liberty Bell

Chris Ebeling and I scrambled a bit of the Tatoosh traverse in Rainier National Park.  We did Plummer, Pinnacle, and the Castle.

Chris on the castle

Bridget and I also discovered surfing.  Surfing blew my mind and I already have surf specific trips planned for next year.  If you have never surfed you should.  My doctor was not psyched though.

Bridget about to get pitted

I also had the opportunity to work with a group of archaeologists as a rope technician in Montana.   I free soloed up a short limestone face and placed an anchor to rig a ladder.  The cave paintings were documented and the cave is in the works as getting donated back into the Crow tribe.  Larry makes a squeeze into the main cave system.

One of the paintings in the cave

I also got a chance to climb in the needles of the Black Hills.  I was very impressed with the quality of rock and the friendly locals who let me climb with them (I was on a short vacation with my Mom).

So even while injured you can still get out and enjoy the outdoors.  I am a classic coper - I am staying away from the mountains and turning down amazing trips to the Enchantments, Wind Rivers, etc.. so I am dying a little bit on the inside from that, but I feel super lucky to still be able to climb.  A summer of little lessons.

Cheers, Loren

Thursday, June 18, 2015

Chugwater spires

Rick on "Little Fin".  "Middle fin" is the big one to the right.

Found some excellent choss spires.  I recruited the corn fed dark horse, Rick Dvorak, to climb a few of them with me.  A taste of Utah right here in the WyMont. The nice part about these towers is that they went free, although loose and scary.  Classic tower experiences. We put anchors on the top to belay from but be ready to tandem rappel.

Myself hiking into the spires (I guess I haven't had an ACL in my left knee for 2 months now - doesn't seem to affect me...?)

Myself heading up "Middle fin" on the F.A.

Myself on the 5.8+ hand crack of "Middle fin"

Rick on top of "Middle Fin" - these things are skinny!

Rick on the sporty F.A. lead of "little fin" 5.8+?

Rick on the top of 'Little Fin"

Wilson dog

Cheers, Loren