Dead Bunny and the Moratorium

We've been making a few trips down to Wyoming in search of some adventure ice climbing. It's been a great few days of exploring and climbing.


Bridget and I somehow found the well hidden Dead Bunny route, we managed it in 3 pitches of fun ice with a WI4+ crux exit. Camping in the cold was a bit rough as my sleeping bag is very inadequate for subzero temps but I survived. Bridget and I parked then walked the few miles to the rim where the climb poors out of the cliff below your feet. The climb is well hidden but worth the search. We climbed the route with tree belays and replaced the faded webbing for the Rappel anchors.


Why is winter camping in Wyoming so damn cold? Good thing I brought along some salted nut rolls to keep me warm.


P1 Dead Bunny




Bridget on P2 Dead Bunny


P3 Dead Bunny


Bridget on P3 Dead Bunny


mmmmmm salted nut roll.....


Bridget found this really neat mountain goat skull on top of the climb.


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The trips to Wyoming also entailed some exploration....
which lead to commando style stream crossings.



We never really found any new big ice lines in the area, but in the act of exploration we discovered many other hidden jems. Descending into these canyons I was reminded of why we go out side in the first place, and this reason kept tugging at us to see what was around the next corner or bend in the stream.


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Kevin Volkening and I teamed up with Josh Varney (who was visiting from Alaska). We climbed the ultra-classic Moratorium ice route. It was in really fat shape (get it while it's good!). We climbed it in two 60m pitches then rappelled as it began snowing. Between the car and the climb we encountered a herd of Bighorn sheep, a herd of elk (with a coyote pestering them), and many deer. A cool and wild valley.


He forgot his helmet in the car. Josh is shown here with the lid to his pack with the Winter Dance book inside for protection.


The Moratorium


Kevin following the first pitch with Josh coming back up from the car with his helmet.


Kevin leading the crux


Josh pulling over the lip






The winds o' Wyoming

Cheers, Loren

California Ice 2011

It's always a treat to be able to climb California ice (hidden in the Beartooth mountains). This is a not-to-be-taken-serious video I made from a climb of "Cali Ice" a few days prior with Brad and Jason.

Cheers, Loren



Music by: The devil makes three

Pika Art

Having ACL surgery this winter forced me to try new activities besides climbing and skiing.  This winter I took up painting after a 8 year hiatus.  I painted in water color, a medium I struggled with, but it has really been enjoyable and has honestly helped tremendously with being cooped up on the couch all winter.  Many paintings I did while sitting below the formations in cold winter as the water froze on the paper.  All paintings (so far) pertain to the greater Beartooth region.  

As a plus I have had many offers to sell prints and put the art on hats/shirts.  I am happy to make prints and select art has been printed on trucker hats so far.  These hats are sold by e-mailing me directly (alpinewall@gmail.com) or by visiting Beartooth Mountain Guides store front shop in Red lodge, Montana (look for the climbing wall out front).

To see prints visit Pika Art, the simple website I created to show case the goods.

Thanks and Cheers, 

Loren

From the East to the West - Cannon cliff and the City of Rocks

Wicked Splittah! Bridget leading Reppy's Crack - Cannon Cliff

The past month has been a whirl wind of teaching, traveling, and trying to balance all things life.  Bridget and I have had the chance to climb in Idaho and New Hampshire in a one moth period.   

The stunning Cannon Cliff

Bridget leading on the perfect splitter of Reppys crack while dodging falling ice from the cliff above

Bridget topping out Reppy's crack

Bridget on the second pitch of the Whitney - Gilman ridge on Cannon Cliff

Bridget on p3 of the Whitney -Gilman

Bridget topping out the Whitney- Gilman

leaf peeping

The city of rocks with Bridget and Leslie climbing on the anteater spire (right one)

Leslie climbing deep in the city

Leslie and Bridget navigating

The city

Cheers, Loren

From Washington pass to the Black hills

Austin Hart on a limestone palisade near Red Lodge 

Despite the ACL deficiency in my left knee I had a very enjoyable summer (stupidity is bliss?) climbing rocks, peaks, and boulders from Washington to South Dakota.  Here is a summer spent climbing with an injury.

Liberty Bell group from Washington pass.  Bridget and I climbed the right most tower (the liberty bell) via the NW face (right arete).

Bridget climbing on Liberty Bell

Liberty bell

Bridget on the summit of Liberty Bell

Chris Ebeling and I climbed 3 of the Tatoosh peaks in Rainier National park (Plummer, Pinnacle, and The Castle) - very fun scrambling on loose 4th class

Chris on the Pinnacle

Chris on the Castle

Rainier from the Tatoosh Range

Bridget and I also discovered surfing 

Bridget being a dirt bag

Austin Hart leading on C point - Beartooths

C point - no summit but we climbed the small pinnacle to the left - and found old webbing on top!

Austin Hart leading on the Tower of Innocence

Tower of Innocence

Tower of Innocence

Austin on the summit of the Tower of Innocence

And finally wrapping the summer up with a trip to the Black Hills.  I visited with my Mom and ran into some older (and awesome) local climbers who let me lead the classic Tricouni nail spire - the classic simul-rappel off the summit was worth it alone!

Cheers, Loren