"Bearcat"

Wolverine falls, Bearcat is the smear on the far left side of the falls proper.

Years ago Rick Dvorak and I stumbled on a beautiful, unclimbed, ice line in the Crazy Mountains of Montana. We somehow managed to climb the ice flow in two pitches (it was one of my first ice leads ever, and Rick's first time ice climbing). I still remember being so scared on the first ascent that I nearly shook myself off the climb. When I reached the top of the first pitch I lowered our only set of ice tools (used DMM predators) down to Rick so he could second the pitch in soft boots and strap on crampons.

It was undiluted adventure.

I had seen wolverine tracks in the area thus we named the route "Wolverine falls" WI3/4.


Rick following on the first ascent of Wolverine falls. Notice the bike helmet. The ice in the back ground is the route "Chicken Wing" M5/6.

A few years passed and Kevin Volkening, Kasey Welles, and myself went back to climb a mixed line located next to Wolverine falls. We hand placed two bolts in the blank rock above the ice then placed natural protection to gain a belay/rappel tree. We named the route "chicken wing" M5/6, in honor of the amount of bar food we devoured after the climb in Livingston.


Myself on Chicken wing.

By now I thought the the area was climbed out in terms of new ice or mixed lines. It takes new eyes to see what was sitting directly in front of us the entire time. Ron Brunkhorst and Olin Erickson invited Bridget and I to Wolverine Falls to try a new mixed line, of course I jumped at the opportunity. It was also Olin's Birthday thus a group (the first annual Crazy Mountain Ice Fest?) was born.


Olin leads the first pitch of Wolverine falls.

The new line was an anemic drip on Wolverine's far left side ending in a rock dihedral. Since Ron spotted the line I offered to take pictures from above.

Ron climbed the thin ice route easily. Another mixed line in the area was born. Ron cleaned the route on rappel, We pulled the ropes, and I lead the route for the second ascent 20 minutes later, then Bridget climbed it for the third.

Ron named the route "Bearcat" WI4+, M3+. (another name for wolverine).


Ron on Bearcat.


Ron on Bearcat


Myself on Bearcat. Photo by Ron B.

The Crazy Mountains continue to amaze me.

Cheers, Loren

Dead Bunny and the Moratorium

We've been making a few trips down to Wyoming in search of some adventure ice climbing. It's been a great few days of exploring and climbing.


Bridget and I somehow found the well hidden Dead Bunny route, we managed it in 3 pitches of fun ice with a WI4+ crux exit. Camping in the cold was a bit rough as my sleeping bag is very inadequate for subzero temps but I survived. Bridget and I parked then walked the few miles to the rim where the climb poors out of the cliff below your feet. The climb is well hidden but worth the search. We climbed the route with tree belays and replaced the faded webbing for the Rappel anchors.


Why is winter camping in Wyoming so damn cold? Good thing I brought along some salted nut rolls to keep me warm.


P1 Dead Bunny




Bridget on P2 Dead Bunny


P3 Dead Bunny


Bridget on P3 Dead Bunny


mmmmmm salted nut roll.....


Bridget found this really neat mountain goat skull on top of the climb.


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The trips to Wyoming also entailed some exploration....
which lead to commando style stream crossings.



We never really found any new big ice lines in the area, but in the act of exploration we discovered many other hidden jems. Descending into these canyons I was reminded of why we go out side in the first place, and this reason kept tugging at us to see what was around the next corner or bend in the stream.


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Kevin Volkening and I teamed up with Josh Varney (who was visiting from Alaska). We climbed the ultra-classic Moratorium ice route. It was in really fat shape (get it while it's good!). We climbed it in two 60m pitches then rappelled as it began snowing. Between the car and the climb we encountered a herd of Bighorn sheep, a herd of elk (with a coyote pestering them), and many deer. A cool and wild valley.


He forgot his helmet in the car. Josh is shown here with the lid to his pack with the Winter Dance book inside for protection.


The Moratorium


Kevin following the first pitch with Josh coming back up from the car with his helmet.


Kevin leading the crux


Josh pulling over the lip






The winds o' Wyoming

Cheers, Loren