A group of dedicated hand-bolters (damn our Socio Economic status!) have been bolting like mad at Morgan Cementery. Last week We placed 21 bolts, all by hand! Morgan Cementery is a special place to climb. The rock is loose, but good enough; it's the views and vibe that make the place special.
List of new routes (2011) Morgan Cemetery
- "origami" 5.11+ Sepuchler wall
- "Double Rainbow" 5.11 (by Scott Sandbaggin Salzer) Sepuchler wall
- "Slow Elk" 5.11b Mushroom rock
- "Gumby appreciation day" 5.5, Mushroom rock
- "Gnar" 5.5, Mushroom rock
"Syringopora" 5.10b, frog rock.
Kevin V. and I excaped to the Clarky with "Salsa Verde" as a goal. The Clarky is a commiting place to climb. There is little betta, and the first ascentionists have created a bold technique which adds to the adventure.
The start of "Verde" is a set of chains hanging off an 800' cliff that buldges so the route can't be observed before rapping in. We rappelled in anyway, went to the wrong set of anchors (on accident) kept on rappelling, then ended up 500' up in no-mans-land with a stuck rope. I jugged up the 9.2 mm rope as it sawed on a sharp edge. We retrieved the ropes and make some sketchy rappels to the ground where we studied the route. By now we were fried from the crappy descent, but we also didn't know if we could hike out of the canyon. We decided to come back in better style and loaded our bags for the miserable hike out. Luckly we were able to find a mountain goat trail and follow it up (some 5th class) to the rim.
Random pictures from this spring in Montana
mandatory rest/rain day activity