Wednesday, February 17, 2010

An Archive of beta



Protection on "Lone Goat" Crazy Mountains


I figured I'd archive a few First Recorded Ascents partners and I have done over the years, mainly because I have a short memory and these routes have a high chance of being lost to time, which will eventually happen anyway. Climbing in the mountains of Montana it's not really about first ascents; it's about the experience, sharing cold coffee with good people, laughing, being so scared you want to puke, sunrises, sunsets, falling snow, getting away from "the man", falling ice, commitment, having a synergy with your partner where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts, falling rock, pushing yourself beyond what you think you can do, being a living part of a mountain, being awake.

Ice:

"Puta Gato" WI4, 2p, East Rosebud, Beartooths
"Wolverine Falls" WI 3+, 2p, Crazy Mountains
"Elk Falls" WI 3, 70m, East Rosebud, Beartooths
"Piolet falls" WI 3, 15m, Crazy Mountains
"Brown Gully" M6, 2p, Pine Creek, Absaroka Mountains
"Chicken Wing" M6, 20m Crazy Mountains
"Low Hanging Fruit" M5, 15m East Rosebud, Beartooths
"Scottish Leather Face" WI3, M3, 2p, West Rosebud, Beartooths

Rock:

"Cloud Forrest" V8, Rock Creek, Beartooths
"The Butterfly Effect" V7, Madison River
"Meadow" 5.12a (sport), Bozeman
"Cyber Circus" 5.11a 3 pitches(sport) Bozeman
"Moon Dog" 5.12a (sport), Bozeman
"Half turn" 5.9 (sport), Redlodge
"Scruffy Squirrel" 5.10 (sport), Redlodge
"New World Monkey" V6, Billings Rims
"Apsaalooke Spire" 5.8, Beartooth Mountains
"East Ridge of Spirit Mountain" 5.7, 12 pitches, Beartooth Mountains
"North-East Ridge of Storm Spire" 5.9, 6 pitches, Beartooth Mountains
"Lone Goat" 5.7, 3 pitches, Crazy Mountains
"Dark Moon Couloir" AI3, 1,300' Spirit Mountain
"Unnamed" 5.9, 2p, Unnamed wall, Hyalite Canyon




Rick Dvorak on "East Ridge of Spirit Mountain"




Myself starting up "Elk Falls"




"Puta Gato" WI 4




Olin Erickson on "Scottish Leather Face"




Olin Erickson on "Cyber Circus"



Apsaalooke Spire



Dark Moon couloir, spirit Mountain (with partial ski descent, solo)