Wednesday, January 13, 2010

East Rosebud: new ice and old ice

Bridget and I headed into the Beartooths to climb some ice this weekend. I have been spying a little mixed line in the next ravine north (downstream) of "Hellroaring Falls" for a few years now. I imagined a steep rock section to a hanging ice dagger with bolts for protection (the rock at hellroaring falls is very compact). What I found was a "cute" little mixed climb about 15 meters long with a hanging dagger. There were crack systems so I opted to lead it on gear (some poor). I fixed a pin midway up and trundled BIG rocks off to make it more repeatable in the future. I did find some ancient tat on a tree at the top so its most likely been climbed, so I'll just do the traditional Beartooth thing and call it a F.R.A. I think "Low Hanging Fruit" would be a good name for this route, all-in-all it's a worthy climb minutes from the car and is about M5 in difficulty, cheers.

We also climbed "Upper Rosebud Falls". It was brittle and the strong winds were knocking off microwave sized rocks from above the ice climb that came crashing down. Other than that it was a great day out.

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